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Michael Leavitt & Co Inspections, Inc. |
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MONDAY MORNING MESSENGER |
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Message prepared especially for Members of the American Institute of Inspectors® as well as Home Inspectors abroad |
GOOOOOD MORNING, A.I.I.....
It's a great day here in Orem, Utah. We had 6" of heavy white fluffy stuff fall from the heavens yesterday and once again have returned to the "everything is white" exterior reporting method. When it comes to evaluating roofs today, don't even think about it.
Have you stopped to realize that it is just 18 more days until most of us will find ourselves sharing war stories together in Reno, Nevada? Time has really flown by since our last get together and I am once again looking forward to recharging my batteries. The Circus Circus will be our venue of choice and it should be a great mid-year event. Word has it that several of the wives are also coming along. As you finalize your reservations I encourage you to arrive early and not book your exiting flight right after the event. Take your time leaving and arrive an afternoon or even a day early. Reno is really pretty this time of year and you might find it best to bring your sweetheart a day early and spend some nice alone time together.
For more information on the AII Mid Year conference please visit www.Inspection .org
NEWS from CPSC - U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE CONTACT: Hunter Recall Hotline: (800) 207-5982
March 7, 2002 CPSC Media Contact: Scott Wolfson Release # 02-116 (301) 504-0580 Ext. 1189
CPSC, Hunter Fan Co. Announces Recall of Humidifiers
WASHINGTON, DC- In cooperation with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), Hunter Fan Co., of Memphis, Tenn., is voluntarily recalling about 100,000 humidifiers. The motors in these humidifiers can overheat, posing a fire hazard.
Hunter Fan has received nine reports of the humidifiers' motors overheating, including one incident involving minor property damage. No injuries have been reported.
The recalled humidifiers have the following model numbers and date codes, which can be found on a label located on the back of the motor/switch housing (see example of the label below):
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MODEL
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SIZE
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DATE CODE
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DESCRIPTION
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| 32500 CareFree | 5 Gallon | 15200 through 36500; 00101 through 36501; or 00102 through 06002 | Light beige, made of plastic with a dark beige base, dark beige top vent and tinted water tank |
| 33300 CareFree Plus | 3 Gallon | 15200 through 36500; 00101 through 36501; or 00102 through 06002 | Light gray, made of plastic with dark gray top vent and dark gray base with a tinted water tank |
| 33330 CareFree Plus | 3.3 Gallon | 15200 through 36500; 00101 through 36501; or 00102 through 06002 | Light gray, made of plastic with dark gray top vent and dark gray base with a tinted water tank |
| 33350 CareFree Plus | 3.5 Gallon | 15200 through 36500; 00101 through 36501; or 00102 through 06002 | Light gray, made of plastic with dark gray top vent and dark gray base with a tinted water tank |
Consumers should stop using these humidifiers and unplug them immediately. Consumers should call Hunter Fan at (800) 207-5982 anytime to arrange for a free repair or replacement. For more information, consumer can log on to the company's website at www.hunterfan.com.
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Models 33350, 33330, 33300
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Model 32500
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Michael, I performed an inspection this week that bears telling. I would like to pass this story on to fellow inspectors. The poor old lady, very hard of hearing, who was selling the home, had paid an unscrupulous contractor 17k to replace all the old galvanized water pipe with copper, replace the water heater, and HVAC system.
The water pipe was only replaced under the home and at exterior locations. The old galvanized pipe had been left in the walls and locations that were not readily visible.
The water heater was replaced, and a re-circulating pump added. The piping arrangement would not allow water for the pump to circulate water through the system only flow through a short loop at the water heater (although there was enough piping twisting, turning and connecting to it self to confuse some into thinking it just might be functional). The water heater had one earthquake strap; it was ½ inch, 26-gauge plumber's tape, nailed to the wall. The SRV was piped with flex copper in an upward slope arrangement. The SRV piping entered a side wall and its termination not found. The flue was single wall extending through the garage roof with less than one-inch clearance to combustibles. On pointing out the issues to the buyer (seller was present) the seller shouted "No it's OK I was here with the contractor when the City Building Inspector signed it off as OK." I explained to her that the inspector can make mistakes, and I was not there to perform a "CODE" inspection but to document issues that may not conform to normal building practices, non-functional items, any issues that might affect health, fire, and safety and so on.
Now on to the replacement of the heating and air conditioning system, this home had a High Efficiency condensing furnace installed. It was a split system, with the furnace being installed in the hall closet. The furnace was less than six years old. The condensate line coming out of the furnace was rubber and it was stuck in a ¾ inch copper tee from the air conditioning condensate line. This terminated at the floor level. The issue here was that the condensate from the furnace is very acidic and must be piped in material resistant to chemicals. You can see by the pictures that it corroded a hole in the condensate line. Leaked onto the electrical conduit where it caused further corrosion, onto the electronic air cleaner housing doing the same finally onto the floor where it was a constant puddle. Mold and material deterioration was the result. Inspectors, please be aware of this condition and report the improper use of material on high efficiency furnace condensate lines. Also the refrigerant line was only insulated at the exposed locations next to each unit, protruding under the home just far enough that it appeared to be continuous.
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I received a phone call from the local inspection department asking why I was performing "Code Inspections". Evidently the owner called the building department and raised the roof an inch or two. After explaining to the individual what it is home inspectors do and DO NOT DO "Code Inspections" he changed his tone of voice. We discussed my credentials, (I am a professional member of ICBO), and he said he would look into the matter.
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He called back a few hours later to let me know the original contractor was serving time at one of our state's hotels with Bubba, 3-5 years for fraud in connection with his construction company. He has also had his contractors licensed revoked. I asked about the inspector who performed the inspection of this work and was told that it is an internal issue and could not be discussed. Are Home Inspections Needed? Are our fees reflective of our protection for the consumer? Would we receive the same? as the "code inspector" if we had missed these items? John Rebenstorff
It’s certainly good to hear from most of the inspectors that I have been conversing with lately, that business is picking up and going good. My business is above average for the season, considering that where I live we are still in the grip of the Eastern Oregon winter. I plowed my drive last night, and again this morning. I am sure that I won’t get any sympathy from Michael Leavitt or Bill Schwahn.
Lets go back and talk a little more about the electrical requirements for an FHA Inspections. First, a review of Handbook 4150.2, to get a better grasp of how this book is laid out. This handbook is divided up into nine sections. Of these, there are only two sections that will give the home inspector the clues of what he/she needs to do a proper FHA inspection. First one is:
3. PROPERTY ANALYSIS. This section gives the FHA guidelines for property analysis and includes the specific requirements to which appraisers must adhere so that the appraisal will reflect an accurate valuation. Most of this section is devoted to such things as basement space, window sill height, and economic life vs physical life. Strictly appraiser stuff until it gets over to Section 3-6. Here it tells the appraiser such things as: A Termite and Dry Rot inspection is required. It includes defective conditions, ventilation, foundation, crawl space, roof etc. Here is where we get our first glimpse of what the FHA expects as far as FHA requirements.
3-15. Electricity must be available for lighting and for equipment used in the living unit. Refer to the specific instructions in the protocol (Appendix D) for determining adequate electricity.
The second section that gives us some information is:
APPENDIX D: COMPREHENSIVE VALUATION PACKAGE PROTOCOL.
D-2 VALUATION CONDITION REQUIREMENTS This section provides specific conditions of the subject property that the appraiser must review in the Valuations Conditions Form. Remember that these are instructions for the appraiser for filling out the VC Form. It covers such things as typical conditions that require repairs or replacements, termite damage, soil contamination, grading, public water connections, etc.
Here is our next clue: Electrical System: Examine the electrical box to ensure that there are circuit breakers with no visible frayed wiring or exposed wires in living areas and that there is adequate amperage for the appliances present in the property.
If the appliances present at the time of inspection at the time of inspection do not appear to be reasonable (undersized), determine if there is adequate amperage to run “standard” appliances, as per municipal code.
And finally, the VC Form it self (The bottom line):
Electrical system
That’s it boys and girls. That is the full extent of the instructions given by the FHA to the appraiser on checking electrical systems. (Let’s try to get by the statement about checking the electrical box without laughing.) First of all, it tells the appraiser that electricity must be available at the property. Then it tells the appraiser that it must be adequate. It does not say that it has to be 200 amp service, or any amp service for that matter. Should a licensed electrician determine if it is adequate amperage? Of course, we all can determine this for ourselves. I will report the ampacity of the service, and if, in my opinion it appears to be inadequate. My recommendation if it were doubtful situation, is that would be to prudent to allow a licensed electrician put his name on the line. All of you already know and do that. Now, what about switches or outlets that don’t work? How about outlets that spark or exposed wiring in the living areas? What about frayed wiring? It goes without saying that we all thoroughly cover these things in our normal inspection. When you do this you have more than covered the FHA requirements.
In closing, as I have stated from the start of this series. Don’t make something out of FHA Requirements that is not there. FHA requirements are so lenient that they do not give the client adequate protection. It’s still up to you to fill that role. Just continue to give the thorough coverage in your inspection and report that you always have. I have no problem with any inspector that might be able to collect an extra fee for an FHA inspection. Go get it! It will be easy money. Something any home inspector could use more of.
Hi all, today I inspected a home and found this in the attic crawl space. In the crawl space was an on demand gas water heater. What you see in the picture is the condensate drain line from the furnace (also in the crawl space) draining into the plastic cat litter pan and then the water drains from there to the outside. This seems OK, I've seen stranger things in new homes. My question to the hotline, is it ok to have the PRV draining into the same pan? Also the PRV comes off of the hot water line, is this typical? Thanks everyone. Eric Smith - OR
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Eric: Absolutely not! The SRV or T&P valve are required to drain to the exterior from 6" to 24" above the ground. Jim Lucas, Camino, CA
Thanks Jim, I have a couple more questions for you all. After looking in the "Uniform Home Inspectors Code Book" (Thanks Bill Ball) I noticed a couple more potential challenges. The unit is securely mounted to the framing but the gas supply line is NOT flex. Also I think there may be a plastic water line down line from the unit after a couple of feet of copper. I'm going to see if I can go back there today and look again and take some pictures. I'm beginning to think that the condensate drain line from the heater was once solid and when the water heater was installed, the line was cut and the custom cat box pan was installed to make things easier. This thing is starting to stink of "Harvey Homeowner Installation". Your thoughts on this are greatly appreciated. Eric Smith
Eric, Jim is correct about Harvey Homeowner having been at work! Notice also that there appears to be no dielectric between the dissimilar metals. No a really big deal, but should be called, especially if the entire plumbing system has this deficiency. I have seen the SRV put on the hot water line, but not too often and in most cases the house/water heater was very old. Ron Cloyd
Eric: Regarding flex lines to furnaces. It was approx. 1994 that furnace had to hardpipes to the outside of the cabinet then connect to a gas flex line. To my knowledge, the only item that does not require a flex line is a swimming pool heater. That must be hardpiped. Jim Lucas, Camino, CA
Hi Eric--I would think that it is not OK to have the SRV drain into a plastic pan--the temperature of 210 and pressure of 150 lbs. release points would melt the plastic and/or blow the damned pan into the next county. Also the picture shows that the SRV is not even measuring any temperaature as the probe is no where near any hot water. The piping should be continued down with the same size of 3/4" to within 6" of the bottom of a pan or floor and should not have any fittings on the end of it. This picture shows a 90 degree elbow, This is a callable concern for many reasons. Robert Fischbach--Sacramento Ca
What do you report when you see this toilet drain line condition? What are the major issues to check for and be aware of when evaluating this area? Is the reporting different for the home inspector verses the pest inspector?
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HAVE A GREAT WEEK! Michael Leavitt & Co Inspections, Inc. The Most Qualified Inspector in Northern Utah! |
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