It's a great day here in Orem, Utah! Summer is finally over...... Hooray!!! Today is a vacation day and none of you should really be reading this until Tuesday. This means that I can settle back into a normal life again. My health has perked up and I am ready for the steady workflow instead of the burial of the summer work flow. We have thousands to collect in our accounts receivable and life couldn't be better...... Well maybe a little better, but I'm not complaining.
Since the Summer rush is over it is now time to start laying the groundwork for a productive Fall and Winter. September brings with it the start of the Home Inspection conferences. Hopefully all of you have set aside educational funds for the numerous trainings that will occur in the coming months. Details on the American Institute of Inspectors conference in Reno at the beginning of November can be found at www.Inspection.org. There are also many other conferences that will be very educational. The ITA conference will be in Las Vegas at the beginning of October. There is also a Journal of Light Home Construction Live seminar in Las Vegas in mid October. CREIA has theirs coming up too. The last entry and probably the biggest is the ASHI conference taking place in New Orleans in the beginning of January.
Now I am not trying to hype all of these events. Instead, I am trying to get you thinking ahead so that you can make plans now. It is much easier (and cheaper) to register for these events with funds earned in the Summer than it is to wait (and pay higher entry fees) right before the conferences. Don't limit your learning and education because of your lack of planning. There is a lot going on and I recommend that you try to make it to at least two or three of these fine events in the coming months.
I read this account on another e-mail forum during the week. It brought back memories of the numerous outlet testers that I have worn out over the years....
We recently had a rather startling occurrence. We discovered that one of our polarity testers had failed and was giving false indications. The faulty tested gives the following indications:
Of most concern to us is the failure of the tester to detect a hot/ground reversed condition because this condition causes the ground circuit of an appliance with the three prong type plug to become energized, constituting an immediate electric shock hazard. (Now that I think of it, maybe that’s what caused me to get knocked on my butt when I grabbed the access cover of a gas fired heater one time about 5 years ago.) The faulty tester is a GB Instruments Model GFI-501A, is red, and is of the type which includes a button for testing GFCI breakers (price about $8 to $10). We are in consultation with a local hardware store which sells these testers, and they are notifying the manufacturer. Fortunately, by reviewing the reports of the properties inspected prior to the discovery, we were able to determine that only three properties had been inspected subsequent to proper operation of the tester, so “damage control” requirements were minimal. We have constructed a test set for each of our inspectors so they can periodically test their testers to ensure they are functioning properly. This test set contains a properly wired outlet as well as outlets wired in each of the improper configurations. If you desire to construct such a test set be sure to use plastic coverplates and remember that the coverplate screw and the metal “ears” at the top and bottom of the hot/neutral reversed outlet which protrude beyond the edges of the junction box will be hot. Be sure to effectively insulate them to avoid electric shock. Examination of a similar tester manufactured by A W Sperry Instruments indicates that it is nearly identical to the BG Instruments tester and was also manufactured in China (perhaps by the same manufacturer?). Until more is known about the possibility of this type of failure occurring in brands other than GB Instruments, the most prudent course of action appears to be suspicious of all brands. Gary Sniffin - San Diego, CA
We do not have to be bonded here in Utah and my confidence level on roofs is high, I have been inspecting for 5 years and have roofing experience to boot, but I do not do Roof Certifications if I cannot get into the attic to view the underlayment and around vents and such for stains. My Roof Certification fee $115.00 and that is my minimum fee to go anywhere. I started doing this when I first opened my business to fill some slots and now they recommend me as a home inspector as well. I simply use the roofing page from my report system and write extra comments to satisfy myself and my clients. Make sure you correct the page number at the bottom to read 1 of 1 or 1 of 2, whichever applies. Good Luck Chris Burkhart
A.I.I.™ members, First the question & then the scenario. Do you sign your inspections and/or have a signature page with your report?
I had a client get very upset with me today because I didn't sign his report. Even though my name is on every page, he questions whether I have confidence in my reporting. I stated that my report is computer generated & I have no way to sign it, particularly when it is faxed to him. I also said that his is an unusual request but I will sign another copy of the last page of his report & fax that to him tomorrow. Scenario: This guy is either a control freak or is paranoid of everyone. He would not use the Inspector recommended by his realtor, so he called me. I could tell that he wasn't pleased when I said that I knew of his realtor but had never worked with him before. He gave me a bogus address to begin with & called back with the correct address the day before the inspection. He would only give me a phone number; never a mailing address; & paid in cash. Fortunately, the home is in good shape, considering that the selling family has 8 children (but that's another story). He stayed with me during the entire inspection & we did have a couple of major discoveries. I feel good (and confident) about my report but still have the feeling that this guy will be anxious to call Judge Wapner after he moves in. Sometimes, I think I should spend more time listening to my gut. Doug Treloar - Carpinteria, CA
Doug, The guy is a wacko. I have never had anyone ask me to sign a report in 11 years. All you can do now is pray. Jon Gudnason - Placerville, CA
Jon: What about page 14 and the signature page at the bottom that you and I gave to our trainees? Jim Lucas - CA
I didn't say one should not sign a report, simply that no one has ever asked me to. Doug's client asked and did a lot of other unusual things that would scare me. Incidentally, I have been using some form of computer generated report for about 7 years now and have not signed a report in all that time. I figure a signature on the contract is sufficient. Jon Gudnason - Placerville, CA
Doug: Your client sounds a little extreme, but it is just because of customers like this that I devised the attached page. Sometimes I add other stuff to the signature line, depending on what kind of inspection it is. For any lead inspections or "Risk Assessment," I will add "EPA Certified Lead Risk Assessor, #NV-03-0220044076," or "State of Nevada Certified Master Inspector of Structures #S0046," etc. These are all legitimate titles and certifications that I have worked hard for and don't mind using when it is appropriate for the situation. If I used all of them all of the time, I'm sure people would think that I was being pretentious. Anyway, I'm sending this to you in the hopes that you can adapt some of it to your report. Some of this stuff came from private communications with Mike Leavitt over in Utah, and some I put together from what I found worked best for me over the years. By the way, I also have a standard form letter that I use to send the final copy of my report and this also gives me a chance to vary the signature line. Give me an e-mail if you would like a copy of it. Richard Grisham - Las Vegas, CA
Doug: If it is a signature that your client wants, then give him a signature. Scan your signature and create a special signature graphic. I use this on my #D Inspection System NPMA WDI termite reports. I would then just add a SUBHEADING to the last line of the report that said INSPECTOR'S SIGNATURE: and then just insert the signature graphic onto the menu line in the report. Play around with it and develop a format that you like. You might also tell your client that your standard $385.00 inspection report comes unsigned, but you have a $685.00 report that comes signed, in full color and includes overnight delivery. =:-) Michael Leavitt - Orem, Utah
I am curious as to how you Oregon Inspectors are handling this signature page thing. Oregon law requires the inspector to provide a written inspection contract signed both by the inspector and client, prior to undertaking a home inspection. How do you do this electronically? I am in the middle of adapting a new contract, and I can use a little more information. Ted Harris HOME CHECK, Inc.
Ted: Attached is a PDF file of my Service Agreement from yesterday. You will see that I have a signature graphic inserted into the signature line. I merge the information from the 3D Office Management into this 3D Word Processing file. Then I print it out to Adobe Acrobat and e-mail the file. The client then receives it, prints it out and then faxes a copy back to us. Notice the Page 3 that allows for them to fill in the credit card information and fax that back as well. Hope this helps! Michael Leavitt - Orem, Utah
Doug--this is just another example of why I have stayed with the hand checked, non-computer type form. More flexibility. I not only sign the report and my service agreement, but I rubber stamp every report with my State of Cal Contractor's license seal and rubber stamp every report with the A.I.I.™ seal that has my certification # on it. Any body can print out a computer form--My forms are unique to me and the client and give me a lot more credibility. Paying cash for all items a person can is a good way to launder money !!! Take the cash and get rid of it ASAP, as it may have traces of drugs on it !!! Robert Fischbach
Please include your name so that proper credit can be given.
ERIC: I will answer your question about water heaters in a 3-walled closet with no more than a 3" gap on the sides. Per the California State Architects Engineer whom I talked to personally, he stated that one may measure the width of the door opening, add 4" to it, cut two pieces of EMT electrical pipe, smash 2" at each end, drill 5/16ths inch holes on the flats, bend at 90 degrees and install inside the door and into the studs at the upper and lower 1/3rd of the tank rather than use a strapping kit which may be hard to install. Bracing is required for both gas and electric tanks. Jim Lucas - Camino - CA
Looks like someone was afraid of heights! After the home inspector recommended that a screen be put in place to keep little critters out of the house via down the chimney - the owner figured a screen covering the vent pipe would do the same thing. Doesn't screen hinder air flow up to 60%? Roger Ball
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